Decision Time
Nor Kharberd, Ararat Region, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 2000
Eight years ago, before coming to Armenia to live, I had been vegetarian for 15 years, including 5 years as a vegan, in the U.K. Of course, Armenians don’t like anyone different and it took 3 months and a vodka-soaked New Year to abandon all that time and start eating meat. Now, after an argument with a friend going hunting this weekend, I’ve decided to go back to being vegetarian.
To be honest, I hate the way Armenia has changed my life in some areas, and concerns about the quality of meat sold in this country — especially in the area of quality control and expiry dates — makes me think that it’s time to rectify the damage. Besides, while I do admit that human beings are basically animals, we are also omnivores and have the ability to choose.
Personally, I don’t need something else to die for me to live my life. Anyway, given the level of corruption and lack of quality control, it makes sense from a safety point of view. Armenia Now had something on this in 2002.
On October 10 workers of Yerevan Veterinary Service Center detected beef infected with anthrax in a store on Khorenatsi street.
[…]
According to official data last year, during heightened awareness stirred by news from abroad, there were 18 cases of anthrax infection - none fatal, and all causing skin rash, the mildest of three forms of the poison. This year three residents of Dzunashogh and Metsavan villages of Tashir region have been infected using meat of one animal.
[…]
“During Soviet times 95 percent of animals were slaughtered in slaughter houses,” he says. “There were six slaughter houses in Armenia. Now approximately 95 percent of animals are slaughtered in the yards without any control. Sometimes when a villager sees that an animal is dying he slaughters it and brings for sale and the regional vet doesn’t know. For 10 years I’ve been offering to create special slaughter houses, like it is common in civilized countries, where specialists will be working and there won’t be any need for our center’s functioning. However, nobody is interested in it.”
I’ve made my choice again. Had always felt ashamed when meeting others from abroad who made the move to Armenia and managed to remain true to their beliefs. Jeffrey Tufenkian, for example, is a vegan. Anyway, I dislike the way in which some Armenians actually enjoy killing animals. While I can understand the need to consume meat, the idea of finding fun in killing is beyond me.
Anyway, interesting to speak to a local Armenian girl whose sister is also vegetarian, and to find out today that Nessuna at di cavoli e di re is also trying to cut out meat from her diet albeit for health reasons. Another thing that’s changed with me since being here is my smoking, and I’m gonna try to cut that back too. Wish me luck on both counts.
In bocca al lupo!
Comment by Nessuna — August 28, 2006 @ 3:42 pm
Maybe you should first help to stamp out fox hunting in your native Britain before pouring scorn on “some Armenians” fond of hunting. Hunting is a lot more popular and traditional in Britain than here. So we are not that “uncivilized.” As for meat, true, Armenian agriculture is still rudimentary in many ways, but at least we don’t have periodical outbreaks of British animal diseases like foot & mouth. Maybe because we don’t feed our cows and pigs with grinded bones and pesticides. And I’m sure many in the West can only dream about the kind of meat which is sold here. Just compare your tasteless steaks with our khorovats…
Comment by Hayastantsi — August 28, 2006 @ 5:56 pm
Hey, “Hayastantsi,” the quality of all food in this country is bad so don’t give me some nationalist crap that it isn’t. There are no safeguards at all in Armenia because of corruption, poor quality control and no real monitoring on whether goods sold are fit for human consumption.
As for fox hunting, two things. Firstly, fox hunting is for the “elite” in the U.K. and I have and will continue to oppose it. Secondly, it was made illegal in the U.K by the 2004 Hunting Act so get your damn facts right first.
Incidently, in my opinion, Armenian cuisine is the most boring in the South Caucasus region. And as for Khorovadz it’s no surprise to see that most people here ask to see the meat that they’re going to eat before it’s cooked and served to them. At least our restaurants are monitored and checked.
I think you’ll also find that foot and mouth disease is not a “British animal disease.” For example:
Still, all the more reason not to eat meat wherever you are. I will add one thing, though. There are more cases here of food poisoning than in the U.K. Again, it’s because this country is inherently corrupt and there is very little quality control at all, especially in Yerevan’s restaurants and cafes.
Even ice cream caused problems last year because of improper refridgeration and re-refridgeration.
Comment by Onnik — August 28, 2006 @ 7:20 pm
It’s really funny to hear a Brit complaining about the quality of food in a foreign country. Thank God, it’s not France or Italy.
So you get bored when eating khorovats, dolma or lahmajo … Hm, interesting. You stopped being a vegetarian because of that boredom or at the gunpoint? Perhaps you should switch back to fish & chips. How about our fruit and vegetables? Are they more “boring” than the Frankenstein food sold at Tesco?
Regarding animal diseases, yes we have had minor outbreaks in a number of villages in the past, but nobody is known to have died of that. And that’s nothing compared to MILLIONS of cattle regularly slaughtered in Britain because of mad cow disease, foot & mouth and other epidemics. Hunters will need centuries to kill a comparable number of wild animals.
If this country is so bad, why do you live here??? Where is your English common sense, man? You seem sick and tired of Armenia and Armenians, but surely there are some goods things which keep you here and which you avoid mentioning in your blogs. If they are outweighed by bad things such as organic food, then it must be really hard for you to live in an “inherently corrupt” country you hate so intensely. My commiserations.
Comment by Hayastantsi — August 28, 2006 @ 9:15 pm
Hayastantsi, everyone knows this country is inherently corrupt. Let’s face it. Most of the brightest sparks here have already left, and those that haven’t want to. Look at your emigration rates for god’s sake!
As for me, yes, it is tiring to see so much apathy in society and to see how educational standards are declining, corruption and human rights abuses are increasing etc. However, I have a son born here and for now, that’s what keeps me here. I just hope that Armenia improves by the time he grows up.
As for everything else, I don’t care. The news reports speak for themselves. You have no quality control and corruption raises other concerns. Unfortunately, because you don’t have a free media, it’s hard to say what the full picture is because it’s not reported by your mainstream government-controlled media outlets.
But, whether in England or Armenia, I will not eat meat and that was the point of the post. Typically, you tried to inject your own nationalist views into the matter. Still can’t believe you called Foot & Mouth disease a “British Disease” when Armenia reported an outbreak this summer. Like I said, typical.
And don’t give me your idiotic fish ‘n chips argument. That is not a typical meal for the vast majority of the country. I’d also add that on my last visit to the U.K. in December it struck me that there is better and a significantly more varied selection of food available. I ate significantly better and more interesting food than in Armenia.
Let’s face it, there is more variety in almost everything in Europe, but we’re now going off the point. I said I will not eat meat. You turned this into some argument about whose meat is better. Actually, you eat your poorly checked meat and I won’t. That’s it. Simple. End of discussion.
Unfortunately, however, I still have to contend with cases of botulism and brucellosis which are quite common because of the way in which food is preserved and because goat’s or sheep’s milk is unpasteurized. Thankfully, however, hundreds of thousands of Euros are being spent to bring Armenia in line with much higher European standards.
Comment by Onnik — August 28, 2006 @ 9:31 pm
Are there any vegetarian restaurants in Yerevan?
Comment by Raphael — August 28, 2006 @ 9:46 pm
Raphael, not as such, but some restaurants have vegetarian options — especially for those types that traditionally have vegetarian meals as part of the cuisine. For example, Indian and Lebanese. Probably the best vegetarian menu can be found at the Tufenkian chain of hotels, however.
BTW: Reminds me of a story about an English friend who came to visit me here in 1999. Somewhere near Sevan we stopped off at a restaurant and he was the only vegetarian among us. Sure, the waitress said, we have vegetarian food. We have vegetarian kufta, she said.
I’m kind of surprised at this but take her at her word when she assures us there is no meat in it at all. I think that maybe they really have made something with a meat substitute. Anyway, it comes, my friend cuts into it and we can all see that it’s meat.
So, we call the waitress over and say, there’s meat in it and you said it was vegetarian. She looks at us and says, but it’s only a little bit of meat…
;-)
Comment by Onnik — August 28, 2006 @ 10:06 pm
Thanks Onnik.
Hayastanci, I don’t really get your point here. If I’m getting sick after having “khash” — does it make me less Armenian, or not Armenian enough to have the right to live in Armenia???
Comment by Raphael — August 29, 2006 @ 12:56 am
BTW: I would like to point out that in the case of the photo above, the cow wasn’t stunned by a blow to the head first. It was alive for some (most?) of the time it’s neck was being cut into. I’m sorry, but I think Armenians could at least do that.
Whether you eat meat or you don’t, we have laws on humane slaughter in the West. Of course, even that needs reform (ever guess that I was vegetarian for 15 years?!?!?!).
We even have humane slaughter NGOs although, of course there are exclusions for religious groups such as Jews and Moslems. However, Armenians aren’t either and it indicates the need for reform of this area of the food business here, in my opinion. Interestingly, others feel the same to ensure the quality and safety of meat sold in Armenia.
Anyway, it’s basically a matter of culture and society here, but as with civil and human rights, Armenia is lacking. Personally, I think there’s a connection.
Comment by Onnik — August 29, 2006 @ 1:23 am
Wow! You have some hopes for Armenia’s future. That’s quite an admission. But it’s clearly in conflict with your claim that this country is INHERENTLY corrupt. It means you think that corruption and dishonesty are a genetic feature of the Armenians. You too have some Armenian genes, don’t you?
Comment by Hayastantsi — August 29, 2006 @ 1:42 am
In case if the idea of “finding fun in killing animals” was referred to me, no, I don’t find fun there, but hunters do. Actually they shoot birds -“lor“, quail I guess, and poultry meat is for consuming as well. Luckily it was rather a pick-nick than a hunting because by my request they shoot only one bird and that was just for justifying the idea of coming to that deserted field for hunting. Other cartridges were spent on shooting battles from distance and that was a real fun.
Perhaps one of the main purposes for my giving up eating meat was that I realized that those animals are not meant for eating at all, and that, as you mentioned, I don’t need something else to die for me to live my life, interestingly I said the same sentence some, wow, about 2 years ago. Besides I saw some slaughtering of sheep and that influenced me soo deeply. Now I intend also giving up eating chicken, though I’ll keep on eating fish as I need those vitamins. And I feel much healthier now without meat.
I’m so happy that at last you did your decision. I’m glad that finally there was something to strike you to go back to vegetarian. I shook your hand when you smoked less one day, I’ll do it again if I find you smoking less and less, but by that, let me congratulate you and I’ll shake your hand on this occasion as well. Wish you luck!
Comment by A friend — August 29, 2006 @ 1:48 am
No, it’s not, Hayastantsi, and you’re talking out your arse if you’re trying to convince anyone that Armenia isn’t inherently corrupt. From the educational and medical spheres to your form of government and business, corruption is the way to get ahead.
However, is this genetic? No — like Georgia, Azerbaijan and other former Soviet Republics — it is cultural and yes, it can be changed. Education, the rule of law and a genuine belief in anti-corruption intiatives are key. Look at the Baltic Republics, for example. Decades ahead of Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia.
Nature or nurture? I believe in the latter — if there’s a genuine will to change things for the better, of course.
Comment by Onnik — August 29, 2006 @ 1:50 am
So, you don’t like the idea of hunting many birds, but one is okay? Interesting logic. Couldn’t you just go somewhere else where no hunting was involved?
Still, your argument given the other day about humans being the worst type of animal made me think. That might be a justification for you to not eat meat while “tolerating” limited carnage, but it isn’t for me.
Except when there’s a picnic involved, obviously.
Thanks for that at least. I do believe humans can be different from animals governed only by basic instincts even if you don’t. My friends in the U.K. are the same and they at least remain true to their beliefs.
Anyway, it made me realize that I’ve never liked or tolerated hypocrisy or contradictions in life. Like I said, Armenia changed me for the worst, but thankfully I never became corrupt or hypocritical.
Now it’s time to revert back to how I wanted to live my life — and not how this society expects me to. Let them mind their own business and sort out their crap while I sort out mine.
Still one bird or many — you either enjoy hunting or you don’t. Your choice as it is mine. Anyway, my point about finding fun in killing also had to do with the way some kill animals here during slaughter.
For god’s sake, I was even shocked to see two Diasporan Armenians want to slaughter a sheep here so that they could feel “Armenian.” This despite them not knowing how to or having any experience of doing so.
I tried to stop them and managed to do so. A villager with experience in killing animals instead slaughtered the sheep albeit without stunning, but some Diasporan loony called me a “motherfucker homosexual” because of it.
Some contradiction there in her choice of words, but anyway
Comment by Onnik — August 29, 2006 @ 2:02 am
Hayastantsi,
Don’t be so nationalistic. Yes, our country and government are extremely corrupt and we don’t have good food quality system in place. And if I voice about it, it doesn’t mean I don’t like my country, it means I care and I understand that we need to do a lot to make our food safer. It is true that most of the food that’s being consumed in Armenia now is more or less close to organic. But the more developed our agribusinesses become, the less natural our agriculture will remain. Therefore, we need food certification and quality control agencies that are NOT corrupt and people can trust them. Currently, there are no ways to know for sure that the meat or any other processed food is safe in Armenia.
Comment by Another Hayastantsi — August 29, 2006 @ 2:15 am
Onnik,
Après!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Let me know if there’s anything I can do to support your born again vegetarianism. I’ll attach my (slightly outdated) vegan food list here for starters.
Ciao,
Jeffrey
Restaurants
Artbridge
(on Abovian near Tumanyan)
Lentil salad, seasonal salad, bean salad (and some sandwiches). Laura’s sandwich (if you request NO CHEESE)
Lagoinid
(Middle Eastern restaurant @ 37 Nalbandyan above Sayat Nova, across from KGB 584-993 *delivers)
wonderful selection of very tasty vegan items including:
hommous, foul, tabouli, lentil soup, summer salad, babaganoush, mutabal, muhamara, and falafel (only on Fridays)
Lagoinid Falafel Stand
(@ medical university)
open when school is
Nuri Snack
(on Teryan just below Moscovyan)
very good Lebanese food. good variety of vegan choices. reasonable prices.
Somosa Stand
(@ medical university)
Studio Cafe
(at base of Cascade on Tamanyan)
it has some of the best vegan food in town: good soups (usually vegan), grilled veggie platter, humous, summer salad—all very tasty (although the babaganush is less than great).
Cedars (Lebonese place near HSBC off Square)
Food is not nearly as good as other Middle Eastern places, but it’s open Sundays and has hummous, foul, tabouli, falafel, etc.
Name?
(new restaurant upstairs in Hotel Armenia on Amiriyan)
a few items in both Indian and Thai menu selections that are vegan (or can be done so—some things may usually come with dairy products)
Great Wall
(Chinese restaurant @ 33 Sayat Nova 541-347 / 545-378 *delivers)
a few items, okay Chinese food (not great)
Breeze/newer Thai place on Proshian
(23 Nalbandyan @ Tumanyan 583-982)
vegetarian menu. only okay Thai food (cook named mark opened another one on Proshian but I’m not sure of address of phone. It is supposed to have better food, but not great atmosphere. He speaks English and you can make special requests, but only at Proshian).
Cactus
(42 Mashtots @ Opera 539-939 / 536-399)
Vegetarian menu (can be gotten without cheese). Pseudo-Mexican food but as authentic as you’ll find in Armenia.
Caucasus
(82 Hanrapetatyan 561-177 / 562-614)
24 hour & veg menu
Pizza Peppinos
(23 Mashtots 538-567 / 531-199 *delivers)
veg pizza (w/o cheese)
Chez Garo
(Pushkin @ Mashtots)
Home cooked western Armenian food with a number of vegan items. casual, homey atmosphere.
The Club
(___ Tumanyan between Moscovian/Saryan and Mashtots—look for yellow and black sign and steps down next door to Al Lioni Ital. rest.)
Much of the menu came from Garo who partnered with these people for a while then went back to having his own place again. Good variety of vegan salads including white bean and other things with protien. Generally tasty food with some things you don’t find most places. interesting hip atmosphere (great bathrooms with reusable towels).
Our Village
(5 Sayat Nova @ Opera 548-700)
Bean soup, fresh greens, salads, aveluk, maybe a few other things
Avan Villa Hotel (Tufenkian Hotel)
(Nork Marash)
a bit more expensive than most (but much cheaper than Dolmama). Has great selection of traditional (mostly Western Armenian cuisine) with many vegan options (also great view of the city and outdoor seating in nice weather)
Dolmama
(Pushkin near Aboviyan)
Much more expensive than other places, but has a couple of vegan items and nice decor
Middle Eastern food
(on Komitas)
hummous, fatush, other salads
Diamond Pizza
(on Amiryan near the Square)
good Italian despite name. has some salads and vegetable ragout that are vegan, decent pizzas without cheese and some delicious deserts: caramel apple is my fave and has walnuts
Stores, Markets
Shookas (such as the “Prospect Shooka” on Mashtots across from the Blue Mosque—below Khorenatsi)
Have great selection of nuts, fresh fruits and veggies at reasonable prices
Smack Salad
(across from Kino “Nairi” approaching Cascade)
many many delicious vegan salads. Also use soy kurds at times. Owner is currently looking into getting local soymilk and tofu (there used to be a supermarket that had these but it closed)
SAS 24 hr market
(Amiryan and Mashtots AND now on Tumanyan near Mashtots too)
has nuts, some veggies, as well as tahini and puffed wheat cakes (make good snack for home or office)
Aroma
(Nalbandyan & Sayat Nova)
soy milk, diabetic food, foreign food
EVIK – Specialty Confectioners Store
(Nalbandyan @ Sayat Nova)
imported specialty foods, esp. Iranian. Soy nuts!
Hayastan Market
(Barigamootsun, Droojba, Friendship Station Metro Circle)
Dried Soy Meat (written in Russian and the workers generally don’t know about it. Located in Muselii section), soy milk, flax seed oil (I’ve seen this in several places. Only says flax on the back and the expiration date is march 2003, but I don’t know if it can actually expire).
Galaxy Foods
(on Leningradyan before the bridge that goes by the sports complex if you coming from Bagramyan/Komitas)
often have soy milk and rice milk among other things…
Comment by Jeffrey — August 30, 2006 @ 3:00 pm