Gyumri, Shirak Region, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 2005

Yesterday marked the 18th Anniversary of the 1988 Armenian Earthquake that devastated northern Armenia and left 25,000 dead and many more homeless. Since then, even with millions and millions of dollars coming into the country for reconstruction and development in those parts of Shirak and Lori regions affected by the tragedy, the term “disaster region” still largely holds true. Yes, Spitak has been rebuilt, but unemployment is high.

Likewise, there are still many families living in domiks (temporary metal containers) in Vanadzor and Gyumri. Moreover, despite the anniversary and how the catastrophe shaped today’s Armenia, the day was largely forgotten by most people. Indeed, in the blogosphere, only Myrthe at The Armenian Odar posted something. Ironic that it was a non-Armenian blogger who remembered such a date, but that’s how it turned out.

Yesterday was the 18th anniversary of the Spitak earthquake that caused so much death and destruction in the northern part of Armenia. The earthquake affected the lives of thousands of people forever. Not just the lives of those who survived or lost loved ones and whose lives changed forever in the course of just a few minutes, but also the lives of every single child born since in the Earthquake Zone. Their lives are affected as well: they hear of brothers or sisters that they have never known and of how life used to be so much better before the earthquake, their parents are unemployed, to this day they live in housing that was once meant as temporary.

Still, RFE/RL marked the event as did the Armenian President Robert Kocharian. However, according to the station’s Armenia Liberty web site, Kocharian’s visit was not exactly well-received in Gyumri. Like I said, life in the second largest city in Armenia is still pretty damn depressing, and even with money from the Diaspora and the international community, you still can’t say that Gyumri has been rebuilt.

But let’s face it, with a population of somewhere between 100-200,000 people, it shouldn’t be that hard to do. That is, had not corruption, incompetence and indifference set in instead.

Kocharian was confronted after the religious service by scores of local women with a litany of grievances, most of them relating to their wretched housing conditions. His bodyguards were at pains to hold back the crowd.

“I have supported a disabled child for 18 years, it’s impossible to continue like this,” a middle-aged pleaded with Kocharian.

“Mr. Kocharian, please help us solve the problem of our hostel,” screamed another woman who claimed to be facing eviction from a ramshackle building that houses dozens of impoverished families.

[…]

According to the local authorities, at least 2,000 Gyumri families still lack decent housing despite past government pledges to completely rebuild the area by 2002. Unofficial estimates of the number of such people are much higher.

[…]

Kocharian discussed the matter at a two-hour meeting with senior officials from the municipal and regional administrations. His planned news conference was cancelled for unknown reasons. The Armenian leader likewise avoided any contact with local reporters during his previous December 7 visit to Gyumri.

Well, credit where credit is due when it comes to Spitak. Forgetting the perennial problem of unemployment, Spitak has really changed in the eight years I’ve been here. However, Gyumri is really another matter, and given how that city was meant to have outshone Yerevan in the Soviet era in terms of its people and its architecture, I think it’s a disgrace that it’s still in the condition it’s in.

I’d much rather see a rejuvinated Gyumri, for example, than the crappy and aesthetically displeasing buildings on Yerevan’s Northern Avenue or a few dozen cafes owned by corrupt officials destroy the capital’s public parks. Still, who cares? Apart from Myrthe it seems that nobody does, although the opposition press is using the anniversary to attack the Government, and Kocharian in particular.

RFE/RL’s Press Review has more.

“Chorrord Ishkhanutyun” accuses President Robert Kocharian of breaking his pledge to completely rebuild Armenia’s northern regions devastated by the 1988 earthquake by 2001. “Gyumri again left the impression of a disaster zone during the president’s latest visit there [on Thursday],” the paper says in a report on official ceremonies that marked the 18th anniversary of the earthquake. “Robert Kocharian did not meet ordinary people in Gyumri. He laid a wreath where he had to, held a secret meeting [with local government officials], and fled to Yerevan.”

“Unfortunately, we are forced to once again note a phenomenon … which is hard to describe as anything other than disrespect for thousands of still homeless and jobless people living [in Gyumri],” comments “Azg.” The paper points to statements by senior officials and their loyal media that Armenia no longer has a disaster zone. “Is this the result of ignorance or just a lie?”

Well, I won’t be expecting any serious change by this time next year either. To be honest, even with the new apartment blocks that have been constructed thanks to foreign benefactors, not much has really changed in Gyumri. Last time I was there was late last year. I posted some photos from that visit here and here. For this post, however, a few b/w photos from Spitak and Gyumri in 1998-9.

Temporary Metal Church, Spitak, Lori Region, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 1999

Earthquake Memorial Concert, Spitak, Lori Region, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 1999

Earthquake Memorial, Spitak, Lori Region, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 1999

Baptism of children born on the day of the 1988 Armenian Earthquake, Gyumri, Shirak Region, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 1998