Komitas, Yerevan, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 2007

Although I always enjoyed playing chess when I was a child, I’ve never ever been into backgammon, or nardi as they call it in Armenia. It is, however, a very common sight to see on the streets of Yerevan during the summer. As temperatures soar, groups of men — usually pensioners — gather under trees to play each other in competitions which usually seem far too serious for what they actually are.

Actually, I shouldn’t be surprised at that, I suppose, as the first time I remember ever playing nardi with an Armenian was in 1994 soon after returning from work in Nagorno Karabakh. Then, Father Shnork Baghdasarian from the St. Sarkis Church in London invited me round to his home for dinner and to speak about the trip.

Of course, having come met his brother in Yerevan on my departure from Zvartnots airport, it was almost as if he actually wanted to relive his memories of when he lived in Armenia through me.

Russian cartoons from the Soviet era played on the video while his wife prepared dinner. While waiting, Father Shnork couldn’t resist getting out the vodka and the nardi board as well. Knocking back shots, Shnork soon tired of my inability to play ferociously-paced nardi and started to take my turns for me instead.

I always remember that time when I pass albeit more sedate games being played in the park opposite my apartment building.

Well, the park isn’t really a park anymore and has since been taken over by the local mafia to construct as many concrete monstrosities as they can in order to open up cafes, amusement arcades, bookmakers, and kiosks, but at least they did have the decency to leave two sheltered areas for the old dudes in the area to relax under and play nardi, chess, and cards during the summer.

Incidentally, talking of old dudes, I turned 39 today so rather than photograph them perhaps I should have joined them. Well, maybe not just yet, but perhaps sooner than I care to imagine. Maybe I should reserve my seat while I can.

Komitas, Yerevan, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 2007