
Arinj, Kotayk Region, Republic of Armenia © Onnik Krikorian / Oneworld Multimedia 2007
After hearing that Gagik Tsarukian, founder of the Prosperous Armenia party, would be attending a special event in his home village of Arinj on the outskirts of Yerevan, there was no way I couldn’t go either, and not least because despite all the controversy surrounding Armenia’s richest man, word has it that he is highly respected in the area surrounding the city of Abovian.
Indeed, according to Garo (aka Christian Garbis) from Notes from Hairenik, Arinj itself might even be considered a model village for Armenia. Of course, it’s situated pretty much on the outskirts of Yerevan, but there’s no doubt that Tsarukian’s businesses and assistance has something to do with it. Garo and a mutual friend, Hamlet, set off this afternoon to take a look.
We missed Tsarukian who apparently turned up in the morning, but the day was interesting nonetheless. As Garo explains in his latest post, not only was the village quite unlike many others in Armenia, but the event was notable in itself — if only for plumes of smoke eminating from the fire of hundreds of candles lit by those converging on an old church.
Today was the “village day” for Arinj, in other words a holiday, during which hundreds of people—perhaps thousands as they were coming from all around the vicinity—migrate to the site of an ancient monastery perched on hill. All that remains is a tiny chapel, but nearly all the visitors managed to cram into it—not all at once but in a remarkably orderly fashion, filing in and out without shoving, cutting in line or whatever else. Those that could not manage to enter to light candles instead lit them in two large rectangular votives just outside. But for some reason people had given up lighting the individually and inserting them into the sand. Instead the simply threw the candles on top of this uncontrollable fire that burned from the melted liquid wax. I never saw anything like that before—it just shows that Armenians cannot ever let completely go of their fire-worshipping roots. […] Alongside the road leading up to the chapel were vendors selling toy guns, lollipops, sunflower seeds, popcorn, plastic jewelry and all sorts of other things. Oh, and candles, I almost forgot to mention. Every vendor there was selling candles, I swear.
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Arinj must be one of the cleanest villages that I have ever visited in Armenia. It is rare to find any litter on the sidewalks or gutters. And in the late spring there are perennial flowers planted alongside the curbs—even grass grows in certain spots. I would dare think the fact that the small town’s golden boy lives there is the primary reason why the town looks so nice. There are even young trees planted throughout, especially around the vicinity of the chapel, which also serves as a public park it looked to me.
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